October 19, 2005

  • Eats

    In the days leading up to coming here, I was looking
    forward to Turkish food.  A lot of the Middle
    Eastern/Mediterranean foods are similar to each other with an
    assortment of grilled meats and appetizers of hommus-like stuff, olive
    oil sauteed veggies, fresh baked pitas, etc.  Unfortunately, from
    the moment we
    stepped off the plane, we were in Ramadan.  As most of you may
    know, Ramadan (or ramazan, as it's pronounced here) is a monthlong
    period of fasting for Muslim believers.  They don't eat from
    sun-up till sun-down.  Of course if you're not Muslim, you don't
    have to follow it, but it affects our lives in a few ways.  One is
    that most restaurants don't offer their normal menu and instead have a
    scaled down version that eliminates most of the mezze, which
    is often the best part. 

    CC and I went to an 'iftar' last week
    which is the evening meal and a communal breaking of the fast.  We
    walk into the restaurant and immediately notice there is all this food
    on every table and nobody is eating.  Meanwhile on one side of the
    wall they're projecting what looks to be real-time video of some holy
    place with all these people bowing and praying.  The food looked
    like it was getting cold and me wanting to assert my Christian liberty,
    I start eating, whereupon people began shouting and throwing food at
    me.  Just kidding.  No, I waited like everybody else until
    some really loud prayer was uttered on the video broadcast and on cue,
    everybody began eating.  What's also annoying about Ramadan is
    that there's some dude in my neighborhood who normally belts out the
    call to prayer around 8 PM or so every night.  That's not so
    bad.  But this same dude gets up at like 4:00 AM every morning and
    starts banging on a drum to wake people up to remind them to eat again
    before the sun comes up.  This is normal practice so I'm told, but
    I still feel like throwing a shoe at the guy.

    Eggplant is really popular.  These people just
    love them eggplants.  Yogurt, too.  Yogurt can be in a sauce,
    in your soup, on the side, and if you're thirsty, have some ayran, a
    fermented yogurt drink.  All the yogurt and cheese is making CC
    and me rather gaseous.  On the plus side, I'm getting addicted to
    pistachio nuts.  I don't know what they do to 'em, but these
    pistachios taste WAY better than the stuff they sell in the
    states.  Crunchier on the outside, and creamier after they're
    pulverized in your mouth, they taste like cashews with a nuttier
    twist.  Oh, and of course, baklava everywhere you go.  Here are some pics of what we ate last night:


    salad.  tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, parsley, vinegar and lemon.  very refreshing.


    red lentil soup.  nice on a cold night.


    fresh pide always available with every meal.



    donor kebab.  thin slices of grilled lamb.  perfunctory fries on the left.


    iskender kebab, which
    is essentially doner kebab with tomato sauce and traditionally, the
    waiter brings over a pot of frothing butter and dumps about a cup of
    the stuff on top.  see the mound of white stuff to the left? 
    yep.  yogurt.


    spinach pide.  like a pizza, except no sauce and egg instead of cheese.

    rice pudding for dessert.  baked until the top caramelizes then refrigerated till cold.

    finally, chay (tea).  everything always ends with chay.  you drink the stuff anytime, all the time.


    Turkish Phrase of the Day: 
    afiyet olsun! 
    Means "Hope you enjoy(ed) your food!"  Can be said before or after eating....


Comments (13)

  • the food looks so yummy!!!!!!!!
    do they have american eateries there at all??

  • YUMMMMMMMM!  How expensive is all this stuff?  In China, I can eat a huge meal for about $.50.

  • dang, that's cheap. this meal with salad, soup, bread, kebab, dessert, and tea would be about $10...

  • Mediterranean food in general semms very good.  But gotta ask you, what are you doing about Korean food there???  I mean, are there Korean groceries there, or are you having  kimchi shipped in or what?

  • Thanks for this post Hooj... Now I'm hungrier than ever for Turkish! Have you had their infamous Turkish coffee yet? That chay looks awfully dark, but delicious. I think I'm going to live vicariously through you for all the Turkish culture... yea, call me a coward, but you and CC are blessed with courage to do this.

  • tell me when you try the ice cream - i heard it's taffy-like. really have to get over eating lamb because it's in EVERYTHING there. i think they also have good seafood there. be careful of the bird flu! say no to chicken!

  • the food looks delish.  the pide looks yummy.  btw...notice how they're skimpy on the fries, meanwhile in US they load up on the fries and skimp on the meal....

  • do you like that fermented yogurt drink?  there's a turkish resturant here in rockville i went to last week and took a sip of the yogurt drink... it tasted like milk gone bad.  grilled lamb- that looks tender

  • sonia: yeah. they have KFC, McD's, Mexican, Chinese, Italian and other American...

    bbanss: No Korean restaurants or supermarkets. we shipped some stuff that'll get here in two months, but no kimchee. wonder how long it'll take before i get the craving...

    jamie: that's exactly what the ayran tasted like...

  • One of my closest church friends in Seoul told me that Turkish food is very good which u aptly pointed out.  :)

  • I totally pictured you eating and people throwing food at you...  : )  everything looks yummy! 

  • food looks good.  very well prepared.  that must be some fancy restaurant.

  • hooju...where's the baklava and the couscous???

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