Cappadocia
Last week was the end of Ramadan here
and the Turks have a couple of holidays in celebration called
Bayram. CC gets both Turkish and American holidays off so we used
the time to head down to Cappadocia, about a four hour drive south of
Ankara. Cappadocia’s mentioned in the Bible here:
“Peter, an apostle of Jesus Christ,
To God’s elect, strangers in the
world, scattered throughout Pontus, Galatia, Cappadocia, Asia and
Bithynia, who
have been chosen according to the foreknowledge of God the Father,
through the sanctifying work of the Spirit, for obedience to Jesus
Christ and sprinkling by his blood:
Grace and peace be yours in abundance.” 1 Peter 1:1-2
And is also one of the areas where
visitors were from who witnessed the Pentecost. So it’s been a
hotbed of Christianity for quite a few centuries. But to
backtrack a little bit, here are a few other tidbits about Turkey and
Christianity that you may or may not have known:
- Turkey used to be the land of the Hittites from 1900 to 1300 BC, those troublesome OT foes.
- Abraham, on his way to Canaan, stopped by here and lived in a place called Harran for a little while.
- Cyrus of Persia came here and took over for a bit.
- The city I live in, Ankara, is what used to be Galatia.
- Antioch, the place where the term Christian was first coined, is here.
- The seven churches that John is commissioned to
write to in Revelations: Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, Thyatira, Sardis,
Philadelphia, and Laodicea are all here.
- Paul was born in Tarsus, which is here in southern
Turkey, making him Turkish! Well, sort of, if he wasn’t already Jewish and if Turkey existed back then…
Cappadocia is mostly well-known for its
really cool rock structures that were formed by nature. And yeah,
lots of places in the world have cool rocks, but in Cappadocia, they
carved out those suckers and lived in ‘em. And not like cavemen
either. Whole cities of these rock houses. And rock
churches. Tons of rock churches. Not much in the way of
decoration remains in the houses, but there are plenty of drawings and
frescoes still inside the churches. Also, Cappadocia was home to
not only rock houses, but also underground cities. Apparently,
those Cappies didn’t much like living on level ground. Haha, I’m
funny. The underground cities go down to about nine levels, but
only about 5 are open to the public. The Christians would go and
hide down there when invaded and it was fairly impregnable. It
was very sophisticated engineering. Hidden airshafts, wineries,
door seals… I have pictures of that, too. Anyway, here
are a few of them and I’ll narrate as we go along:

The view from Goreme, where we stayed, the night we arrived.

The view from the road as we’re taking our first hike.

A little closer up.

Even closer up.

Too close.

The inside of one of the first rock churches we climbed into.
Most of these are unregulated by the governement and you can walk
around and explore all you want. Believe it or not, there are thousands of these churches in this area.

Crosses on the wall.

No, not massive snot. Drippy stuff is centuries old wax from candles.

One of the first frescoes we found. Looks like Mary.
Probably from the 11th or 12th century. The churches were built
much earlier, but later generations added the frescoes over the
original church decorations.

This is my favorite fresco. It looks like a saint, cuz he’s got a
halo, but check out the expression on his face. Dude looks
seriously grumpy…

This is one of the best preserved frescoes from a rock church museum.

From the same place. I wasn’t allowed to take these pictures. Ssshhhh…

One of the valleys we looked down on.

This is part of a place called the Rose Valley, so named because of the color of the rock.

Houses on a cliff face.

This is a close-up of the previous pic. I almost died climbing up here.

Ok, switching topics, underground city. The Hittites supposedly
built the first three levels, then Byzantines, Phrygians, and
Christians expanded them to go further down. The holes you see in
the ground were for pitchers so they wouldn’t fall over.

Storage area for really big wine jars.

The big ole rock they would roll in front of the doorway to seal it from invaders.

These corridors are only four feet high in some places.

Airshaft. You could feel fresh air coming in through this
thing. Those indentations in the wall are for climbing up and
down the thing. Ok, that’s enough of underground cities.
There are
estimated to be hundreds of these around Cappadocia, most undiscovered.

Ok, some last parting shots. Doesn’t that rock just seem ready to fall at any minute?

Yep, we did a lot of hiking. These are only a fraction of our pictures.
I gotta say though, after visiting this really cool place and
seeing the remains of this great Christian civilization, to think it’s
all gone now and the place is 99% Muslim is really kinda sad….
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